New CERAMICS TOUR–OCTOBER 2009

Yuzen artist Ando Yasushi has perfected a new craft–lacquering of extraordinarily soft deer leather to create unique wallets.

In Collaboration with Photographer, Helen Hasenfeld

© Photos by Helen Hasenfeld

Click here to learn about New CERAMICS TOUR–OCTOBER 2009

I have known master calligrapher and performance artist, Ibata Shotei for many years.  Fond memories include the times I acted as road manager and emcee for his performances at such places as Los Angeles County Museum of Art, San Francisco Asian Art Museum and the Seattle WOMAD Festival.  Calligraphy (Shodo) has long been considered the master art of Asia and all educated, cultured people have studied it.

“In some ways it was extravagant to choose a career in calligraphy, since traditionally, only the wealthy had the luxury of such a choice,” says Ibata-sensei.  “We were not at all part of the upper class, but I wanted to have this kind of foundation and my father encouraged me. Of course, I needed to be practical.  Life in Japan in the 1950’s was a real struggle.  I had to be able to earn a living.  However, only by devoting sufficient time to calligraphy could I really develop to the point that I could bring forward something special.  After graduation I became a calligraphy instructor at Kyoto Women’s University.  This gave me time to focus on my career as a calligrapher while teaching in my field.”

See More Images; Read More Text

Ten days ago, Japan celebrated Children’s day by flying long, colorful koi-shaped flags over private homes and displaying samurai helmuts and dolls related to heroic themes.  Scrolls were hung in private tokonoma alcoves depicting themes of bravery and strength.  Tea bowls with related motifs were taken out of storage for their once-a-year visit to tearooms.

Today is May 15th.  From 10:30am this morning, I stood in front of the Imperial Palace and watched one of Kyoto’s oldest annual events: a parade featuring 600 people dressed in the clothes of the Heian Period (794-1185).  For the past 1400 years, Aoi Matsuri has functioned as a prayer for the welfare and well being of the people in this city.

The festival originally came about in the 7th century as a means to win gain the favor of two dieties:  one god enshrined in Shimogamo Shrine and the other enshrined in Kamigamo Shrine.  The name Aoi (hollyhock) Festival came from the hollyhock leaves that were traditionally considered to be an effective way to protect against disease and disasters.  Today, many of the participants wore hollyhock leaves on their hats.

One of Japan’s star architects, the prolific Aoki Jun, created this wedding chapel in Osaka, in 2005.  Hidden behind the Hyatt Regency in Osaka Harbor, this all-glass space floats in a pond and is accessed by way of a long bridge.

Aoki-san’s Aomori Museum of Art in Honshu’s northern city was completed the following year, in 2006.   Maybe his most recognizable buildings are branches of Louis Vuittand stores, including Roppongi Hills, Omotesando, Ginza Namiki Doori, New York and Hong Kong.

Shopping is different here. We buy our bread from French-style bakeries where bakers bring out fresh-from-the-oven rolls, bread and pastries continually, throughout the day. There are (without exaggeration) dozens of such shops within my usual bicycling route. The variety within each shop is excellent and the variety between shops is staggering. Japanese have been winning baking competitions in Paris for years.

We buy all kinds of tofu from a young couple who sell from their tiny truck. Here is Ritsuko “shopping” at home.

Have you ever eaten tofu made the same day with several times as many soybeans per ounce than regular tofu, that is so creamy it tastes more like custard?

There are still tiny farms in and around our part of town, snuggled in between houses. This food vending machine sells such things as freshly picked spinach, the best pickled daikon radishes and free range eggs for a fraction of the super market price.

The vegetables sold at supermarkets in Kyoto all come from small farms within the city limits.

Work by Tanabe Chikuunsai III

On Sunday, I spent the day in Osaka, looking at contemporary architecture and catching photographer Sugimoto Hiroshi-san’s exhibition at the Osaka National Museum of Art as well as a two man show of the work of Tanabe Chikuunsai-san III and his son Shochiku-san at Takashimaya Department Store.  Not only are Takashimaya Galleries some of the most prestigious venues for artists in Japan, but one of the four generations of Tanabe family bamboo artitsts has had such a solo show there, every year since 1923. I have been following the work of the father and son artists since I met them seven years ago and have had the privilege of taking American museum groups to their studio, on a number of occasions.

See More Images and Text

This week, Koi Nobori carp-shaped flags hang on poles placed above private homes around the city.

May 5th is Children’s Day (a.k.a. Boys’ Day) in Japan, a national holiday celebrating all of our children.  People with children fly Koi Nobori “carp flags” from the end of April in anticipation of this day.  The carp is not only a strong and unusually hearty fish, but legend has it that a carp that can swim up the fabled Dragon’s Gate waterfall at the head of China’s Yellow River will enter heaven as a Dragon.  The strength, health and resolve of a fish that can swim up a mighty waterfall is a perfect symbol of what we would like for our children.

I rode my bike from my house today to 1200-year old Kurama Temple located up the road, about 20-minutes ride. This two hour round excursion includes a climb up hundreds of steps and pathways through the primordial woods. It is also home to dozens of Buddhist and Shinto worship stations that are found all the way to the top of the hill. This course has become a fairly regular afternoon ritual for me.   Along the way, I pass this massive, ancient cedar adorned with sacred shimenawa rope, designating this tree an abode of a Shinto god.

See More Images and Text