Archive for March, 2009

Gora Kadan Part II: The Architecture

Tuesday, March 31st, 2009

Built about 20 years ago, Gora Kadan is one of Japan’s finest contemporary ryokan. It is located in the wooded hills of Hakone, in the little hot springs town of Gora and surprisingly close to Tokyo. I recently spent two impeccable nights there. It was the perfect combination of Japanese aesthetics, cuisine, comfort, hot springs relaxation and extraordinary Japanese attention to every detail.
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Read More about Gora Kadan and See More Photos

Weekend at Gora Kadan, a Legendary Inn in Hakone

Monday, March 30th, 2009

Of the dozens of ryokan inns where I have stayed in Japan, a few are truly superb.   One such legendary inn is Gora Kadan in Hakone, where I stayed this past weekend.  It was my first visit there and it was a perfect experience.   After we enjoyed a long soak in an outdoor hot spring bath landscaped with large stones and plants, dinner was served in the suite of one of my traveling companions. The three-room suite had its own garden, as shown below.

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The hors d’oeuvres course consisted of mixed vegetable sushi wrapped with a paper thin fried egg, round shaped sushi with sea bream, junsai in vinegar sauce (my friend, Japanese food authority Elizabeth Andoh explains junsai well), tiny broiled calamari with mustard and vinegar sauce, prawn, deep fried lily bulb, fu (gluten) shaped like a cherry blossom, burdock root wrapped in unagi, beans and cubes of  Japanese omelet.

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Noguchi and Izumi—Stone House in Shikoku

Tuesday, March 24th, 2009

Today, I entered a house of stone.  Honey warm in the afternoon light.  A private home on Shikoku Island in southern Japan.  Built by Isamu Noguchi and Masatoshi Izumi in 1972.  Based partially on impressions of houses in Ahmenabad, India.

The lead photo in the above slide show is by Gail Rieke.

A tropical space, open to the outdoors and to Noguchi’s stone sculptures in the garden.  I remember the bar-b-que party I attended there, ten years ago.  That night we cooked fish and vegetables over hot coals in the courtyard.  Light filtered through the white mulberry paper of Noguchi’s paper lamps and illuminated the meal like candles.  Noguchi once said, all that is required to create the perfect space is a bedroll and a really good lamp.  Somehow adding a meticulously built stone house adds much to that equation.

Spring is Here: a Visit to Shugaku-in Imperial Villa.

Monday, March 23rd, 2009

Spring has arrived one week early this year. Kyoto is already blooming with snow willows and plums. I saw the first cherry blossoms today, along the Kamo River. I have spent the past two weeks guiding an artist and a professor of landscape architecture to all of my favorite gardens in Kyoto. A few days ago we visited Shugaku-in Imperial Villa. Built in the 1600’s as a retired emperor’s country villa, Shugaku-in consists of  three sections and is completely surrounded by working vegetable and rice farms on about 140 acres of land.  Located on the slopes of the eastern hills, just 20-minutes bike ride from my house ,  this immaculately maintained estate is an excellent example of tea inspired sukiya-style architecture.  Admission is free-of-charge and is limited to 60 visitors at a time.  An appointment to visit can be obtained through the Imperial Family Household offices.

My clients remarked that whereas many great cities in the world may have a few truly outstanding garden sites to visit, Kyoto easily has enough spectacular sites to keep avid garden enthusiasts completely engaged for a long, long time.

Glimpses of Obai-in—a visit to a rarely open-to-the-public, architectural jewel at Daitokuji Monastery.

Friday, March 20th, 2009

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Time and again, over the past 17 years, I had walked by the dark brown gate of Obai-in that frames both the mossy entry garden and the “no admittance” sign. Recently, however, I was finally able to go inside, during a rare public opening. Founded in the late 1500’s, this unusually large sub-temple reveals itself through dramatic wooden corridors, courtyards, mossy green expanses, scroll gardens, tearooms and countless highly crafted architectural details.  The garden in the above image was designed by legendary tea-master, Sen no Rikyu.
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Kinosaki Onsen—Hot Spring Town Street Scenes

Thursday, March 19th, 2009

I just returned from Kinosaki—a hot spring town on the Sea of Japan.   At 4:30pm, the streets were filled with people going to and from various bathhouses, dressed in cotton Yukata robes.  Each of the town’s hotels and inns provide a different pattern of robe to their guests, making a colorful street scene, on a warm March afternoon.

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Fukucho—Moon on the Water, March’s “Sake of the Month” from Author, Lecturer and Sake Expert, John Gauntner

Monday, March 16th, 2009

I recently walked through Fushimi, Kyoto’s historic sake brewing district, and the annual winter sake brewing was taking place.  John explains why sake brewing takes place only in the winter.

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A 5-minute podcast conversation with John about his March, 2009 recommendation for a super premium sake.

Shojin Ryori—Fit for a Stoic Gourmet

Saturday, March 14th, 2009

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Lunch at Izusen in Kyoto.  Inspired by the kitchens of Buddhist monasteries, Shojin Ryori is light, imaginative and delicious vegan cuisine, and Izusen is one of the best places to enjoy it.  Set in Kyoto’s magnificent Daitokuji monastery, it is one of my favorite restaurants to take visitors.

We began the meal with a bowl of whisked and frothy green tea and a sweet made from the roots of the Warabi fiddlehead fern and sprinkled with sweetened roasted soy powder.

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The tea was followed by a shot of plum wine.

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Recently torn down: Takamatsu Shin’s Kirin Plaza in Osaka.

Tuesday, March 10th, 2009

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Update 5-09: This building has recently been torn down: Located on the most prominent street corner in the heart of Osaka’s exciting Shinsaibashi entertainment district, is Kirin Plaza, designed by renowned Kyoto-based architect, Takamatsu Shin.  In this already highly stimulating neighborhood of neon and assertive signage competing for our attention,  Takamatsu chose large, minimalist volumes and simple detailing for Kirin Beer’s high profile theme building. The size of the entries is exaggerated by high arches.  Also characteristic of Takamatsu’s other work,  Kirin Plaza is boldly futuristic, with the facade dominating the area.  During the day, the building appears silent and black.  At night, its four otherwise non-functional towers are illuminated, thus transforming both structure and surroundings of this frenetic district into a quieter, more powerful and majestic place.


Kirin Plaza

Japanese Contemporary Architecture—Creating an Archive

Monday, March 9th, 2009

I have long been a contemporary architecture enthusiast.  Because I live in Japan, I have many opportunities to experience excellent, creative design,  since this country is a leader in the field.   The Japanese were actually well positioned to be an architectural leader.  They have had a strong economy, despite the long recession.  Though traditional in many ways, Japanese society is very future-oriented.  Because of their advanced technological know-how, they are able to manifest a wide range of design concepts.  In addition to their dedication to a high level of quality, they are inventive and highly experimental by nature. Finally, they are committed to architecture as an art form, and are willing to fund cutting-edge projects.

I am posting the following photos as part of my plan to to build an archive of exceptional buildings in this blog.