Archive for February, 2009

Innovative Bamboo Basket Artist, Yonezawa Jiro-san, returns to Japan.

Friday, February 27th, 2009

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Almost completely unknown in the west until about 15 years ago, Japanese artists specializing in one-of-a-kind bamboo baskets have since gained a considerable international following.   I had long heard about one such artist, Yonezawa Jiro-san, and was finally able to meet him the other day, in the city of Oita.  After 17 years living in Portland,  contemporary bamboo artitst Yonezawa-san has returned to live in his native northern Kyushu.  His work was most recently part of New Bamboo: Contemporary Japanese Masters, an extraordinary exhibition at the Japan Society, New York, as well as a one-man show at the Portland Japanese Garden entitled Dream Weaver: The Bamboo Art of Yonezawa Jiro last November.  Always the innovator, Yonezawa-san does not stay with one concept for too long before itching to create something extremely different.  The three styles in the photos below clearly show great breadth in his work.

Says our mutual friend, bamboo artist and author Nancy Moore Bess of Yonezawa-san, “I thinks he sets a high, high standard for himself.  It is his combination of the traditional (that thin diagonal twill weaving is extremely difficult!!) with innovative forms and materials that keeps me coming back to his work again and again. I don’t think a major basketry collection would be considered complete if it didn’t contain at least one of his pieces.”


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Mantensei, February’s “Sake of the Month” from Author, Lecturer and Sake Expert, John Gauntner

Thursday, February 26th, 2009

Why Drink Sake Cold? I frequently meet people who drink their sake hot, unaware that there is another option. In the following podcast conversation, John explains why and when to drink sake, slightly chilled.

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A 5-minute podcast conversation with John about his February, 2009 recommendation for a super premium sake.

John’s sake website http://www.sake-world.com/

Ryutagama: Karatsu Kiln of Nakazato Takeshi-san

Tuesday, February 24th, 2009

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A few days ago, I went to the northwest Kyushu kiln town of Karatsu where  I dropped in at Ryutagama, the kiln of one of my favorite ceramic artists—world-renowned Nakazato Takashi-san. The fifth son of the late Living National Treasure Nakazato Taroemon Muan, Takashi-san and his eldest brother Houan-san are part of the 12th generation in this family of Karatsu potters.  The founder of the line was one of a few Korean potters brought to Karatsu in the late 1500’s to create what was to become one of Japan’s foremost kilns.

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Muan became a Living National Treasure because of his creative talent, which revitalized Karatsu after a long period of decline. Takashi, now about 70 years old, is known throughout the world, especially for his work in the U.S., Denmark and Jamaica. In addition to his own individual interpretation of classic Karatsu ware, he also introduced an extremely soft and warm looking unglazed ware made with clay from the island of Tanegashima.

Ryutagama is located in a small enclave of structures, tucked in amongst a  few hills with a vigorous mountain stream flowing down the middle.  Soft classical music plays in the workshop, covered on three sides with windows with views of terraced vegetable gardens. It is one of the most idyllic work spaces I have ever seen. As shown in the following images, Takashi-san creates functional ware for both the dining table and the tearoom.


<b>Slide Show of Ceramic Pieces</b>

Yoyokaku: Classic Ryokan by the Sea, in Karatsu

Monday, February 23rd, 2009


One of my favorite ryokan is Yoyokaku, located in the pottery town of Karatsu, in northwestern Kyushu. Run by the same family for over 100 years, Yoyokaku is a graceful combination of understated sukiya-style architecture, comfort, great food and a hospitality that is warm yet comfortably quiet. Attentive yet relaxed. The guest rooms are connected to the dining wing by long glass enclosed corridors with stunning floor to ceiling garden views on both sides. Along the way there is a library sitting room and a tea house. Upper floor guest room windows catch views of the large Japanese garden, the neighboring pine forest and the blue of the sea of Japan. Also, within the compound is a ceramic gallery featuring the works of world renowned potter, Nakazato Takashi and his talented children, Taki and Hanako. Much of Hanako’s career has been spent in the U.S. and her work reflects that influence. Next week, I will post photos of the Nakazato compound, sweetly tucked in among hills and terraced vegetable fields.

Kyoto Street Fashion, Winter 2009, Kamigamo Shrine

Friday, February 20th, 2009

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I recently took street fashion photos at one of Kyoto’s oldest Shinto Shrines, on a cold winter day.

ACCESS HERE: Slideshow of Winter Street Fashion, 2009

Pilgrimage to 1500-year old Ise Grand Shinto Shrine

Thursday, February 19th, 2009

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The Wedded Rocks, due east of Ise–a sacred site for the Japanese.

It was a sunny Sunday morning, today, at Ise Grand Shinto Shrine, located two hours by train from Kyoto.  Unseasonal winter temperatures in the upper 60’s brought many pilgrims out today to stroll past aesthetically pruned red pines, trimmed as if they were weathered by winds in canyons or rock sea coasts, making this transition area are feel far more remote.  A number of people gathered by the traditional ablutions area to wash their hands in the gentle and pristine Isuzu River before approaching the diety in prayer.  Inside the nearly white, flawless hinoki cypress paneled Kagura-den hall, handsome young priests in purple robes and tall black lacquered washi hats played gagaku music dating back to the Silk Road of the 7th century with shichiriki flutes, representing the earth,  sho, 17-pipe mouth organs representing the heavens, and ryuteki flutes which is the “dragon” moving up and down between the two.  Sparkling young shrine maidens dressed in white kimono and vermillion hakama skirts performed kagura, an offertory dance to Amaterasu Omikami, the Shinto Goddess of the Sun, the enshrined diety of Ise and the mythological ancestor of the Emperor.

After purification rites, I proceeded though a forest of 1000-year old cedars to the steps leading to the main shrine.  In the spirit of renewal, the shrine has been re-built once every twenty years for nearly 1500 years.  I stood silently with many pilgrims on this spring-like February day, waiting my turn to pay my respects and express my gratitude for life.

Monday night moments.

Tuesday, February 17th, 2009

Nishimura Tokusen Mizusashi
Cold Water Jar by Nishimura Tokusen-san

I’m writing this on the homeward bound bus, on a piece of kaishi, washi paper used for sweets in Tea.  On my way to tea lesson I ran into Kobayashi-sensei on the street, wearing his black robes and a gold colored brimless hat.  He had lived a cloistered life of Zen training for 15 years before coming to Daitokuji in 1978.  His eyes shine like black coals.  His gaze is intense and he speaks in a warm, gruff way.  “Come see me sometime soon,” he said in his usual disarming, vulnerable honesty.

Tonight’s tea lesson involved an underglaze blue and white porcelain cold water jar on the botton shelf of a black lacquer stand.  When it was my turn to prepare tea, I easily made my full quote of silly mistakes, under the strict, yet always forgiving eyes of my teacher.  It was like being pre-forgiven before I even began.

The wet sweet we shared was shiro-an molded into the shape of a chestnut, with chestnut filling.  Shiro-an is a puree of white beans and sugar, but tastes more like a very light, semi-sweet frosting for adults.  Tonight’s dry sweet was an alchemical concoction of sugar, vegetable gelatin and air.  It melted before I could chew it.

It was raining slightly when I walked through the temple complex on my way home.  I could hear the echo of the fire alert monitor clacking wooden sticks together and his sing-song voice calling out for all to be careful with their cooking and heating fires.

At the bus stop, two minutes before I began to compose this blog on kaishi, I played “Japanese stand-off” with an elderly man, where we each smiled and motioned to the other to board the bus first.

The 2009 Modern Swordsmiths Exhibition at Yasukuni Shrine, an 8-minute video by Paul Martin, former curator of swords at the British Museum.

Monday, February 16th, 2009

Last year, my friend,  Japanese sword expert Paul Martin, took me to a private weekly gathering of sword experts in Tokyo where a few dozen people moved from table to table, examined swords that were up to 800-years old and then competed in identifing their origins and even the artists who created them.  British-born Paul is living his dreams in Tokyo, researching swords, practicing Kendo and translating and writing sword-related books.  Recently, he has produced the following video, which he shares with us, below.  Visit Paul’s website at www.thejapanesesword.com

The tea was hot, the night air was icy fresh and delicious.

Friday, February 13th, 2009

Takemoto Ikuo tea bowl

Tea bowl by Takemoto Ikuo

Our Tea teacher is a true, classic Japanese gentleman.  He knows how to create a candle-lit Tea event to celebrate the October full moon; he can prepare a bowl of offertory Tea, placing it on the altar of a Shinto Shrine; he can organize season-specific, three-hour Tea events for dozens of people in a way that is gracious and seemingly effortless.  Most of all, he can talk about Tea and even excite already knowledgeable people. And for those with no knowledge of Tea, he can create a warm and safe place and inspire them with his unique enthusiasm for beauty in-the-moment.

The Way of Tea was laid out by Sen no Rikyu in the late 1500’s.  He introduced the concepts of wabi and sabi into the Japanese mindset.  He turned the aesthetics of Japan from focus on the perfection of Chinese arts into a culture that valued rusticity, patina, asymmetry and understated beauty.  He pared down the previously popular, aristocratic Chinese-style of tea party and combined it with the way Zen monks communally share roughhewn bowls of whisked tea before meditation.  In so doing, he created a secular way to incorporate Zen teachings into everyday life.  Practitioners of Tea study the arts and become connoisseurs of Japan’s innumerable ceramic styles, bamboo flower baskets, ikebana, ink painting and calligraphy, lacquer ware and food presentation.  They then learn how to masterfully blend the right combination of implements with the right combination of guests into stunning tea events.  By learning dozens of meticulously orchestrated variations of the “performance of tea” for guests, they develop focus, mind-fullness and gracefulness that can then be applied to their everyday lives.

When I first began studying Tea, I assumed that I would master the basics in about a year.  Now, three years later, I find myself only beginning to understand what Tea is about.

Horyu-ji Temple: A 1300-year old gem

Thursday, February 12th, 2009

Horyu-ji
Photo attributed to 663highland, Wikipedia

I discovered magnificent Horyu-ji Temple in Nara fairly late in my 38-year love affair with Japan. A Unesco World Heritage site, Horyuji is a 1300-year old site and the only existing Chinese Sui Dynasty architecture of its kind in the world. It looks dramatically different from other Japanese Buddhist temples, which are strongly Japanized versions of many eras of Chinese styles. Horyuji also the oldest wooden site in the world, at a time when Japanese were still copying the Chinese. It wasn’t a couple hundred more years before innovation became more common.

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Of the many treasures of Horyu-ji, the Kudara Kannon, a Korean-made statue of Kannon (Guanyin in Chinese), Bodhisattva of mercy, is the most famous. The tall, slender and stunningly beautiful statue bears great resemblance to the sensuous style of the earlier Chinese Wei Dynasty, with its strong Indian influence.