Archive for the ‘Textiles’ Category

Jin Nanami

Tuesday, August 24th, 2010

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Jin Nanami design duo of Okura Naomi and Yamamoto Shizuko use brilliantly woven textile treasures from Kyoto’s Nishijin weaving district to create their original line of high-fashion, one-of-a-kind handbags. The tradition behind Japanese textiles goes back 1300 years.

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The quality, intricacy of design and beauty of this particular kind of Japanese fabric, woven to be used as obi (wide belt for kimono), is legendary throughout the world. In order to weave such complicated, 3 dimensional woven pieces, professional weavers train for up to 10 years.

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For the past 13 years, Naomi-san and Shizuko-san have been creating their handbags and other accessories with the Nishijin fabrics. Many of the obi are woven with pure gold. Gold leaf is first glued to handmade Japanese washi paper, then sliced into very narrow strips. The strips are then used as the weft on looms or they are wrapped around silk thread, then used either as warp or weft.

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Jin Nanami bags are unusually light weight because both the exterior and interior are made from silk. These finely crafted bags go well with both Japanese kimono and western clothes.

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Questions regarding these stunning, originally designed bags can be sent directly to the artists at the following address: shizuko.yamamoto@jin-nanami.com

My neighbor, Ando Yasushi-san–Kimono artist

Friday, April 17th, 2009

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Ando Yasushi-san is my neighbor and friend.  We sometimes go for coffee at a salon-like cafe, where people from various backgrounds come to chat. Ando-san’s hobby is country western line dancing.  He is a renowned yuzen kimono painter in Kyoto.  Yuzen painting is typically a craft that is cooperatively done by a combination of about 15 different specialists, including a designer, an outline painter, a person who applies resist to the fabric, a broad stroke background dyer, a person who removes the resist from the fabric, a person who paints intricate pictures on the fabric, etc. Ando-san is very unusual in Kyoto, since he does all of the jobs himself, except embroidery.

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“Never discard a piece cloth that is at least large enough to wrap 3 beans.”l

Monday, April 13th, 2009

Yesterday, I visited my friend Kawasaki Kei-san, proprietor of Kyoto’s upper Teramachi textile gallery,  Gallery Kei.  The gallery had just finished an exhibition of 100 year-old offertory bags.  The old adage about saving patches of cloth large enough to wrap 3 beans came from a time when all textiles were precious.  Kei-san explained, “People in pre-industrial Japan would patch together various bits of cloth in long rolls.

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“They would then cut off  pieces in order to create special bags which would be filled with azuki beans or rice, and placed on the altars of Buddist Temples.”

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Gallery Kei specializes in museum-quality folk textiles.  Until the modern era, cotton was difficult to come by in rural areas, especially in northern Japan.  Clothes were made from hand-spinning such things as linden bark, wisteria vines and kudzu vines.  Also used washi paper was cut into strips, hand-
spun and woven with cotton to create shifu, an excellent light, beathing textile.

“Behind Paper Doors–a series about remarkable people in Kyoto.” Saito Hiroshi-san. A mensch by any other name…

Tuesday, March 3rd, 2009

In Collaboration with Photographer, Helen Hasenfeld

New Seijinshiki 09

© Photos by Helen Hasenfeld

Mr. Saito. textile artist  yellow and black  (40)

Mr. Saito. textile artist   (19)
I don’t know how to describe him in English or in Japanese. Only one word works perfectly. Saito Hiroshi-san is a mensch and it is life enhancing just to be around him.  The way he moves, works, lives, plays, talks, laughs and serves the world exudes decency, purpose, fulfillment. Born and raised in cosmopolitan Yokohama, Saito-san came to traditional Kyoto after college, but as a product of the late 1960’s he rejected the salaryman’s way. Instead, he set out to learn to hand paint designs on kimono, and became the apprentice of a yuzen artist. Eventually he found the proscribed formality of the classic kimono limiting and dreamed of moving beyond its conventions to the expression of original, unconventional and artistic wearable art. However, making the move from the narrowly-defined to the open-ended proved to be a leap more challenging than he had expected: his body was not free enough to follow the pathways of his creativity. So rather than pushing himself in a direction that wasn’t working for him, he pulled back, and began to study Butoh, the Japanese-born contemporary dance form based on spontaneous, authentic movement. Through these studies, Saito-san transformed himself inwardly, allowing him to free himself from his analytical mind and move to free form, abstract and bold textile painting. His work now includes extraordinary one-of-a-kind stoles, scarves, men’s shirts and contemporary kimono.

<b>Read More About Saito-san; See More Images</b>

A Four Matcha Afternoon

Wednesday, January 28th, 2009

My hands are arguing with my mind as I type this, because I can’t type fast enough—too many experiences in too short a time. At 3:00pm, I arrived at Daitoku-ji Monastery for a monthly tea event.  I chatted with the kimono-clad volunteer registration person, a young professional scroll mounter.  He invited me to see his workshop. We event participants then entered the tearoom.  Like other tea events regularly held at temples or shrines, a tea host brings treasured implements from his/her own collection  to share with a group of art-loving tea devotees. This month, the host was Chiba-san, a tea teacher employed by Master Horinouchi, a member of one Japan’s oldest and most illustrious tea family dynasties.  As a young Zen monk in black robes ritually prepared the matcha for us, Chiba-san spoke of the implements that he had chosen for us today:  the calligraphy scrolls, the black and red raku bowls, the single camellia-bud flower arrangement, the Ko Takatori glaze cold water jar, the iron kettle, the gold makie-trimmed lacquer hearth edge,  the white dumplings filled with sweet azuki an,  the crisp sesame wafers.

After 40 minutes of warm conversation and two bowls of matcha, we adjourned.  I was about to leave when I noticed my friend, Moriya-san,  a yuzen artist (hand painted original designs on silk), showing kimono and rolls of silk to some guests. “That’s right! I remember now. Today is your exhibition here at the monastery,” I said to him as I stepped onto the tatami floor.  Three years ago, after a 40-year career, Moriya-san moved his yuzen workshop from Kamakura to just west of the Imperial Palace grounds in Kyoto.


I had two more bowls of matcha at the exhibition.  I was just about to leave, when the Abbot saw me and invited me to meet the publisher of The Chugai Nippo, a Buddhist newspaper, and have a cup of hojicha tea.  Otaka-san spoke fondly of his friend, Donald Keene, the West’s foremost interpreter of Japanese culture and a leading translator of modern Japanese literature.  I was, again, just about to leave when I was introduced to the Zen monk who had earlier performed matcha for us.  His temple is located in the western part of Kyoto and is affiliated with Tenryuji, one of my favorite places.  I was, yet again, just about to leave when I ran into an acquaintance of mine—a taxi driver whom I often coincidentally see around town.  I arrived at the bus stop 3 minutes before my departure time.  Round trip today took 2 hours and 15 minutes.  Just another ordinary day in Paradise.