Archive for the ‘Food’ Category

Ohanami–annual cherry blossom viewing parties.

Thursday, April 9th, 2009

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TV news anchors talk about it, daily. Newspapers report on its progress. Kyoto’s parks and Shinto Shrines are filled with parties of people celebrating it. And, this year, the display of cherry blossoms is especially vibrant. Unusually warm weather in March opened the blossoms earlier than usual. Then, recent unseasonably chilly weather has helped to keep them on the branches longer than usual.

On Tuesday night, I attended my tea group’s annual ohanami cherry blossom viewing party, held at Hirano Shinto Shrine.  The shrine is set up with temporary party pavilions that hold dozens of separate party groups.  Like other groups, we brought our own food.  Since several of our members are restauranteurs, we had a spectacular spread of sashimi, gyoza dumplings, very crisp deep fried chicken, crunchy pickled bamboo shoots, Chinese spring rolls, rice balls cooked with red beans, Hakkaisan sake and beer.

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I had a long chat with a member whose family shop in Kyoto has been selling matcha (powdered green tea) to tea enthusiasts for generations.   He recently completed a full year learning the family business on a tea farm in Uji, Japan’s oldest and most famous tea growing district.  I learned that matcha, like coffee, is best enjoyed soon after grinding.  Whereas most people buy their matcha in 100 gram cans, some tea devotees actually visit their shop once each week to buy 10 grams of the powered elixir.  Most people buy matcha by looking only at the price and never really understanding the differences among the dozens of other kinds of matcha in their inventory.   He promised to explain their product mix to me, the next time I visit them.

Our party ended, of course, with a round of tea sweets and matcha. And instead of paper cups suitable for a picnic at a shrine, we sat that evening under illuminated cherry trees and drank matcha from real tea bowls. The party organizers had arranged to serve the 35 party participants with bowls representing 35 different ceramic styles!

Weekend at Gora Kadan, a Legendary Inn in Hakone

Monday, March 30th, 2009

Of the dozens of ryokan inns where I have stayed in Japan, a few are truly superb.   One such legendary inn is Gora Kadan in Hakone, where I stayed this past weekend.  It was my first visit there and it was a perfect experience.   After we enjoyed a long soak in an outdoor hot spring bath landscaped with large stones and plants, dinner was served in the suite of one of my traveling companions. The three-room suite had its own garden, as shown below.

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The hors d’oeuvres course consisted of mixed vegetable sushi wrapped with a paper thin fried egg, round shaped sushi with sea bream, junsai in vinegar sauce (my friend, Japanese food authority Elizabeth Andoh explains junsai well), tiny broiled calamari with mustard and vinegar sauce, prawn, deep fried lily bulb, fu (gluten) shaped like a cherry blossom, burdock root wrapped in unagi, beans and cubes of  Japanese omelet.

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Fukucho—Moon on the Water, March’s “Sake of the Month” from Author, Lecturer and Sake Expert, John Gauntner

Monday, March 16th, 2009

I recently walked through Fushimi, Kyoto’s historic sake brewing district, and the annual winter sake brewing was taking place.  John explains why sake brewing takes place only in the winter.

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A 5-minute podcast conversation with John about his March, 2009 recommendation for a super premium sake.

Shojin Ryori—Fit for a Stoic Gourmet

Saturday, March 14th, 2009

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Lunch at Izusen in Kyoto.  Inspired by the kitchens of Buddhist monasteries, Shojin Ryori is light, imaginative and delicious vegan cuisine, and Izusen is one of the best places to enjoy it.  Set in Kyoto’s magnificent Daitokuji monastery, it is one of my favorite restaurants to take visitors.

We began the meal with a bowl of whisked and frothy green tea and a sweet made from the roots of the Warabi fiddlehead fern and sprinkled with sweetened roasted soy powder.

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The tea was followed by a shot of plum wine.

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Azai-san, master knife maker from Takefu

Thursday, March 5th, 2009

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There were three degrees of separation between myself and a master culinary knife maker, from the Japan Sea city of Takefu.  Despite that, however, we finally met a few years ago.  First, a friend of mine, a Tendai Buddhist priest, introduced me to a German man who had become a master Japanese-style carpenter.  The carpenter, then, introduced me to the remarkable Azai-san,  master maker of culinary knives of extraordinary quality.   Over the years I have been learning about how knives are made.  For instance, by sandwiching a hard steel into a softer steel, the hard metal allows for a very sharp cutting edge, whereas the soft metal adds resilience to the blade as a whole.  Also, where common wooden handles last only a few years when used constantly in a wet professional kitchen, Azai-san makes his finest handles  from extremely hard, red sandalwood (see top knife in photo below), so his knives can last the life of the chef.  Azai-san works in his own workshop, as well as in a fascinating place called Knife Bridge, which is operated by the knife makers guild of Takefu.  Knife Bridge consists of a large, two story room with about a dozen work stations, each with its own fire furnace for working with steel.  High above the working craftsmen is a long runway-like bridge, upon which guests and the general public can walk while looking down, clearly and directly watching the knife making process.

I am not especially skilled with tools, nor do I work with my hands much.  However, I must really thank Azai-san for the pleasureful experience of quality and precision when I prepare food with one of his very special knives.

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The foodie’s foodie, Mora Chartrand-Grant, shares about her donabe.

Monday, March 2nd, 2009

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Steve Beimel: Mora—So you finally bought a donabe???
Mora Chartrand-Grant: Yes, and I’m really proud of it. I always come back from Japan with yet another piece of rustic Japanese pottery to add to our home collection, which I regularly use in the kitchen…the crustier and grittier the better. I first spotted the donabe on JapaneseFoodReport.com. This donabe…made of Iga ware…has a sensuous balance between the black glazed portion and the rough butternut-colored clay. While in Kyoto last December, I found the exact same donabe at Gungendo, my favorite clothing and households goods store. It was destiny! Only 2 days in-country, and there I was, “donabe love sick” at Gungendo. I didn’t care what it cost. It was going home with me.
SB: How is a donabe different from a hot pot?
MC: A rice donabe is slightly different from a donabe for hot pot cooking because it has an inner lid with 2 steam venting holes toward the lid edge. The outer lid that is dome-shaped has only one vent hole. The diagrams in the care/use guide made it clear that there is a very specific way to position the two lids…I love this Japanese care for detail. Also, the rice donabe is deeper and narrower than the hot pot.
SB: Did you need to prepare it before using it?
MC: You must “season” the donabe before ever using by making a rice porridge and then leaving it to cool in the donabe for several hours. The very fine rice starch particles fill the glaze and seal it.
SB: Can we eat yet?
MC: Right. I couldn’t wait to cook my first pot of rice. I bought a bag of new crop Koshihikari haiga (rice with the nutritious germ left on). Only the best rice was going into my donabe. I followed the instructions exactly and used my instinct for adjusting the gas stove. My reward was perfectly cooked rice with a light caramel-colored okoge crust at the bottom. The world came to a stop when I had my first bite. I had recreated the taste and texture of the best rice I’d had in Japan…well almost, but it was darn close. Japanese rice and water really are superior. For just a moment I was transported back to the days of old to the kitchen of a Japanese minka country house. Yes, I had arrived. I had made real rice.
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1st Generation Yakitori Master

Sunday, February 8th, 2009

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Late one Saturday afternoon, about ten months ago, the aroma of yakitori cooking on an open charcoal grill, came wafting in through my office window.  I wondered if the family across the river from our house was having a bar-b-que.  Later on a bike ride, I followed the scent.  I found out that the  “master yakitori chef” only comes to cook in front of our neighborhood grocery store here  in Ichihara,  on Saturdays.  Our dinner that night was, of course, juicy yakitori.  The following Saturday we decided to have yakitori for what we thought would be just one more time.  Last Saturday, however, was our 32nd week anniverary of consecutive  Saturday night yakitori dinners.